

Sleeping Over the Swamp: Eastern North Carolina’s Hidden River Camping Adventure
There are plenty of places to pitch a tent in North Carolina, but how many require you to paddle through a swamp just to reach your campsite? Hidden along the Roanoke and Cashie rivers in eastern North Carolina is one of the region’s most unusual outdoor adventures: a network of wooden camping platforms tucked into remote creeks, cypress swamps and river backwaters. Many cannot be reached by car. Your kayak, canoe or boat is your transportation, and once you arrive, you’re spending the night surrounded by little more than water, woods and wildlife.
The platforms are operated by Roanoke River Partners, which maintains a network of primitive campsites along the Roanoke River Paddle Trail and surrounding waterways. Some sites are on dry land, but many of the most interesting are accessible only by water. There is generally no electricity, running water or traditional campground bathroom waiting when you arrive. This is primitive camping with a uniquely eastern North Carolina twist.
A Campsite Called “Lost Boat”. Lost Boat, hidden just off the winding Cashie River, is a 28-by-16-foot platform surrounded by the wetlands of Bertie County. Paddlers can make the roughly 12-mile trip from Windsor or shorten the adventure considerably by launching near the historic Sans Souci Ferry. The platform cannot be reached by vehicle, and campers need to bring their own supplies, including provisions for primitive bathroom needs. Imagine arriving near sunset, tying up the kayak and pitching your tent on a wooden deck above dark swamp water. As daylight disappears, the road noise is gone. There are no neighboring RVs, glowing motel signs or parking lots. Instead, the soundtrack comes from frogs, insects, owls and whatever happens to be moving through the woods.
Barred Owls, Cypress Trees and Black Bears. Farther into the system are campsites with names like Barred Owl Roost, Beaver Lodge, Three Sisters, Bear Run and Cypress Cathedral. Barred Owl Roost sits above the brown waters of Lower Deadwater Creek near Jamesville. Cypress Cathedral earned its name from the towering cypress trees surrounding the entrance to the secluded camping area. Many standard platforms are large enough for roughly six to eight campers and their gear. Then there is Royal Fern. Located east of Plymouth, Roanoke River Partners describes Royal Fern as being in the heart of bear country. Black bears are known to visit the surrounding area, and campers are specifically instructed to keep food in airtight containers away from tents and sleeping areas. That certainly adds another dimension to lying awake at 2 a.m. wondering what just made that noise.
Not Your Typical Campground! This isn't necessarily an adventure for someone expecting hot showers, electrical hookups and a camp store around the corner. Weather, river conditions and paddling ability all matter. Roanoke River Partners recommends certain routes, including Beaver Lodge and Barred Owl Roost, for beginner-to-intermediate overnight paddlers, while more advanced paddlers can tackle routes to places such as Conine, Bear Run, Three Sisters and Cypress Cathedral. Reservations are required, and spring, fall and holiday trips should be booked well in advance.
We sometimes think an unforgettable adventure requires traveling hundreds of miles to the mountains or taking an expensive vacation. Meanwhile, one of North Carolina’s most unusual overnight experiences is hiding in the swamps and rivers of our own backyard. Load a kayak, pack a tent and paddle far enough into eastern North Carolina's backwaters, and you can spend the night someplace where there are no roads, few people and possibly not another light visible for miles. For one night, your little wooden platform becomes your own private island. And that's an eastern North Carolina adventure worth discovering.
